Tuesday, September 20, 2011

de Grisogono Black Forever Collection

Occhio Ripetizione Minuti
 de Grisogono adds a dash of color and a burst of brightness to its latest Black Forever Collection Edition with the introduction of its Instrumento Tondo timepiece . This year de Grisogono will be displaying its "Black Forever" collection at a special showing in San Fransico on September the 26th & September the 27th.  This year will mark the 15th year, de Grisogono has been designing luxury watches and fine jewelry in black diamonds. 

Black diamonds are quite rare. According to geologists, black diamonds came to our earth from outer space. (Source: Astrophysical Journal Letters December 20, 2006) Otherwise known as carbonado diamonds, these diamonds contain trace elements of hydrogen which indicates an origin in a hydrogen-rich interstellar space. Infrared synchrotron radiation at Brookhaven National Laboratory was used to discover the diamonds' source.
Instrumento Tondo RM N56/A
In addition, black diamonds are found only in Brazil and the Central African Republic. In all the worlds mining fields whether it be South Africa, China, India; where 600 tons have been mined, not a single black diamond has been found. Another clue to the extraterrestrial nature of the black diamond is in its make up. The black diamonds Carbonado diamonds are typically pea sized or larger porous aggregates of many tiny black crystals.
Instrumento N° Uno
Early data from scientists Jozsef Garai and Stephen Haggerty of Florida International University, as well as new research support the theory that showing that carbonado diamonds formed in stellar supernovae explosions.
Whatever the source of the black diamonds, their ultimate destination is what really counts in the here and now.  In 1996, Fawaz Gruozi, of de Grisigono, laid his eyes on the 190 carat "Black Orlov" diamond and  was smitten.  He decided to use these rare gems in his jewelry and timepieces.  However black diamonds are fragile and prone to breakage if not handled by a person highly skilled in gems cutting.
To commemorate 15 years of  de Grisogono's use of black diamonds in its jewelry and timepieces, the company has launched a special edition of timepieces named " Black Forever", which includes watches from the brands first watch collection "Instrumento No Uno" to the highly publicized "Meccanico dG"

The Instrumento N° Uno is superbly crafted in stainless steel protected by a highly resilient black PVD coating.  An automatic movement winds the mainspring.  A dual time and date commands center attention upon a black guilloche dial sporting Arabic Numerals and grey dauphine-style hands.  A black rubber strap closes via a de Grisigono butterfly buckle also comprised of stainless steel and coated with black PVD. 36 black diamonds totaling 1.1 carats adds a sophisticated dazzle to complete the look.  

Instrumento N° Uno DF S42
If you have an irresistible yearning for the complete black diamond experience, de Grisogono can assist.  The Instrumento N° Uno DF is an 18k gold timepiece unabashedly smothered in 478 black diamonds equaling no less than 8.7 carats.  Even the black guilloche dial  is set with 365 diamonds.  The black Galuchat (sting ray) strap completes the pebbled look.  This exquisite high jewelry watch is limited to but 10 pieces.  Given de Grisogono's star studded following ,including Jennifer Lopez, Alicia Keys, Naomi Campbell, Salma Hayek, Demi Moore, Eva Mendes and Rihanna, it seems de Grisigono will have no trouble finding customers for its newest Black Forever Collection.

Black Forever Meccanico dG N09
The Black Forever Meccanico (left) is my all time favorite de Grisigono timepiece and I am quite pleased, de Grisogono has chosen to incorporate this model into its Black Forever Collection.  The Meccanico is unique as it displays a digital read out below  the digital time display only utilizing mechanical white mobile microsegments.  Thus it is the mechanical movement of the watch which operates the second digital time zone display.  For an in depth understanding of the movement of this watch - read my blog The Mechanical Digital Luxury Watch. 
 This particular model , limited to 10 pieces, is crafted from highly corrosive resistant and light weight titanium.  As with all de Grisogono timepieces, scratch resistant sapphire crystal protects the dial and ,in most models, the case back. In addition de Grisogono timepieces are water resistant to 30 meters.

The Occhio Rietizione Minuti (top image)  is simply dazzling.  167 black diamonds on bezel and lugs frame a black matt twelve-blade titanium diaphragm dial.  A minute repeater, which is an alarm complication sounds on the hour, quarter and minute on three separate gongs and utilizing a cathedral striking.   The Occhio Ripetizione was an innovative idea, developed on the same principle as a reflex camera. The Occhio Ripetizione Minuti has a twelve-shutter aperture revealing the movement while the watch is striking.  A matt alligator strap affixed via a three ply deployment buckle in 18 k gold coated with black PVD.  This highly unique timepiece is limited to 5 pieces. 

Black is in and de Grisogono, a company on the forefront of fashion and style, has provided.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

The Cricket in Vulcain's Anniversary Heart Watch for Only Watch 2011



The Only Watch Auction 2011 is an incredible opportunity for  fine watch companies to display a unique watch which incorporates individual achievements pertinent to that company.  For example, Vulcain's Anniversary Heart Watch harbors the Cricket movement - a movement unique to Vulcain's heritage - as well as a skeletonized dial - another Vulcain signature.  

If you are unfamiliar with the Cricket movement, it is an alarm function or reminder function specifically designed by Vulcain  for the smaller dimensions of a wrist watch. In this day an age with fancy electronic devices, alarms are taken for granted or even despised. Alarms appear everywhere from $1 digital watches to innovative allusive alarm clocks which actually roll around.  However prior to the quartz revolution, all watches were mechanical and relied entirely on the harmonious sequential functioning of multitudes of working parts.  At first watches displayed the time in increasing precision, then compasses, tourbillons, perpetual calenders, moon-phases, dual time zones and automatic movements increased the functionality and efficiency of the time pieces.  Prior to the early twentieth century, these complications were incorporated in pocket watches, but after Santos-Dumont popularized the wrist watch, pocket watches were laid down in favor of the more handy wrist watch.  Alarm functions were available  in larger pocket watches and with a larger watch case, the capability of producing a louder sound is evident. 
However an effective alarm function in a wrist watch was a quite a challenge to develop.  Being that the watch case is small,  it was hard to produce a loud audible gong which would arouse a heavy sleeper from slumber.. 
An alarm function had three problems within a wristwatch case:
1) Audibility
2) Effecting Dust protection
3) Effecting Water resistance
... then in 1947 the problem was solved and heavy sleepers could rest easy, Vulcain presented the Vulcain Cricket. The Cricket was so loud it could penetrate the dreams and arouse the sleeper. This new alarm function woke up the World of Horology.
So how did Robert Ditisheim of Vulcain resolve the alarm audibility dilemma?  Well as the name suggests, he turned to mother nature. Let me ask you this.  Have you ever tried to fall asleep while a cricket is chirping its nightly song outside your window? Did you hug a pillow to your ear inorder to drown out the noise, but still heard its persistent resonance. AHH! Now you have your answer.
If a tiny cricket could cause such a noise, than surely a wristwatch could do the same. Robert Ditsheim Incorporated a resonance-chamber like that of a cricket by fitting a two-part back to the watch case. The inner back encloses the watch case and serves to generate the sound. A hammer strikes the watch-case ,which oscillates and produces the sound-waves. The outer case has a twofold function: First it permits the sound-generating inner-back to oscillate freely as it has no direct contact with the wearer's wrist. Second it forms a small space between the inner case back which serves as a resonance chamber. Although many Watch Companies have crafted mechanical minute repeaters, none is quite as loud as the Vulcain Cricket.
The Vulcains's Anniversary Heart Watch is a slender mechanical hand wound 12.7mm thick 42mm rose gold case. Being that the watch is hand wound, an oscillating weight (required in most automatic watches) is absent, thereby leaving the exceptionally crafted movement including the skillfully handcrafted main plate, barrel bridge and movement barrel entirely visible beyond the sapphire crystal case back, as well as maintaining the thinness of the watch case.
The Vulcain Cricket sports a 20 second alarm function and a 42 hour power reserve. Ensuring the watch is securely fitted around the wrist, a rose gold buckle is affixed to a black alligator strap.   

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Swatch Group Breaks Ties with Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co's unremarkable watch designs failed to impress Swatch Group who eventually gave the company the boot.  In 2007, Swatch Group founded Tiffany & Co. Ltd, which was was responsible for the development, production and distribution of Tiffany & Co. branded Watches; however the resulting collections were bland and unassuming lacking a certain charm and color.  Where was the Tiffany & Co. which created exquisite jewelry designs dripping with gems and swirling with color?  Where was the Tiffany & Co. who created tender dragon fly broaches with elegant wings and tender craftsmanship? Where was the company who supplied magnificent jewelry to renowned New York Vanderbilts and Astors and whose creations are displayed in museums?   It seems Tiffany & Co. Ltd watches were left out of the creative company loop, and all that remained was a kind of apologetic collection of watches.  Tiffany & Co. can go two ways at this stage, either admitting the company is not ready for the extremely competitive and highly critical watch market and close the watch shop or revamp its collections and create unique  timepieces which actually represent Tiffany & Co. quality.

As per the original statement by Swatch Group, see below, both Swatch Group and Tiffany & Co, were highly optimistic about there vision of a long term alliance.  This partnership failed to such an extent that "Swatch Group and Tiffany Watch Co. LTD will press claims for damages against Tiffany & Co., New York, in compensation for the loss of planned long-term future business."  It seems to me, Swatch Group expected "more" from Tiffany & Co. - A "more" Tiffany & Co did not provide.  Tiffany & Co's watches are not bad watches.  They may suit the taste of some, and the watches would be quite fitting on the sales floors of less prestigious companies, but being Tiffany & Co. (established in 1837), the watches do not live up to the brand.  If their watch brand means to excel, I think they should look to Louis Vuitton,  Harry Winston, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels - companies which have made waves in the world of watches.

Original Statement at Partnership Commencement:

In December 2007 Swatch Group and Tiffany & Co. announced a strategic alliance to further the development, production and worldwide distribution of Tiffany & Co. brand watches. Under the agreement, the new watch company, known as Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd and wholly owned by Swatch Group, will design and manufacture in Switzerland a complete range of high-end luxury watches.
The enormous prestige of the Tiffany & Co. brand and the Swatch Group’s watchmaking expertise and experience in the luxury segment form a powerful platform on which to build one of the world’s top luxury watchmakers.
Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd is a Swiss company. Its products are designed and manufactured in Switzerland and distributed selectively through Swatch Group and Tiffany & Co. retail distribution networks, including monobrand Tiffany & Co. watch boutiques in certain markets outside the United States. (Source:  Swatch Group. com)

Monday, September 12, 2011

De Bethune Only Watch 2011 Sensual Celestial Charm

De Bethune Only Watch seems as though it is a porthole to the heavens.  Unparalleled watch making expertise accompanied by exquisite renditions of a star filled sky make the DB25 a truly unique display of time.  The exact placement of the stars depicted on the dial are in the very same position as the night in Monaco of January 8th, 1297.  The very night Francois Grimaldi, Genoese leader of the  Guelphs, dressed as a Franciscan monk,  captured the rock.  De Bethune's Orion and Gemini Constellations are 14 invisibly set white diamonds, while 91 surrounding stars are touches of applied white gold upon a memorizing flame-blued titanium dial providing a sense of the incredible infinite expansiveness of the universe.
 Looking at the 6'o'clock position, one notices an aperture displaying a solid silver sandblasted hour and minute discs with Roman Hours and Arabic minute discs or wandering hours.  The use of silver as well as the use of both Arabic and Roman Numerals adds a subtle sense of mystery to the timepiece.
The elegant 44mm 18k white gold three body round drum case protects a  precise Cal. DB2105S comprising of a twin self -regulating barrel and a De Bethune silicon-platinum annular balance; main plate and bridges in beveled and hand-polished steel; balance spring with flat terminal curve. In addition, the watch is equipped with no less than 29 jewels, which ensure smooth seamless transfer of operations. The incredible movement is visible via a scratch resistant Sapphire crystal case back. Large hollowed lugs secure an alligator strap which fastens with an 18k white gold signature De Bethune buckle.
If you out bid the competition in the Only Watch Auction, which will be held by Antiquorium in Monaco at the end of this month to raise funds and awareness for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, you will receive this watch in a fitted box accompanied by a Certificate.  Wish price EUR 100,000 - 150, 000 (source  Antiquorium)
De Bethune was established in 2002 by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet,  with the vision of upholding the watchmaking tradition.  Crafting mechanical timepieces with the aid of cutting edge technological advancements and longstanding watch making craftsmanship, De Bethune has succeeded in making a name among watch aficionados and acquiring 9 patent registrations, 11 in-house calibres validated by intense research. De Bethune has not only succeeded in crafting a timepiece with perfect precision and exceptional craftsmanship, but has created a piece of remarkable beauty and grace.

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Jaeger Le-Coultre Raises Funds for Heart Center in Sudan

At the 68th Venice International Film Festival running from August 31st to September 10th, 2011, JaegerLeCoultre ,who has been sponsoring the festival for the last seven years and supplying Jaeger- LeCoulture finest glamor to the stars, has decided to use this opportunity to support a worthy cause.  On September 1st, on the 2nd night of the festival Jaeger-LeCoultre held an exclusive event: "Reverso for Emergency, Jaeger-LeCoultre Helps the Salam Center".
Just as there are ten glittering nights of the 68th Venice International Film Festival, Jaeger-LeCoultre ,with support of celebrities, will finance ten operations at the Salam Center.  The Salam Center was established in 2007 by Emergency Association in Khartoum, Sudan and specializes in children and adults suffering from heart disease.  The center provides these procedures free of charge to patients who otherwise would have no means of paying for their medical treatment. 
In honor of this worthy cause, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a Reverso featuring a red heart as if drawn by the hand of a happy child. The Reverso design is turning 80 this year.  First developed in 1931 at the fervent request of British Officers in India who enjoyed a hearty game of polo but feared damage to the crystal of their timepiece.

As the story is told:

Cesar de Trey, an influential businessman, who was a close associate of Jacques-David LeCoultre visited friends in India.
A polo player approached him, "Sir, I challenge you to create a timepiece that can survive a game of polo with its crystal intact."

This challenge founded the legend of the Reverso. A Patent for Reverso was filed on March 4, 1931: A watch capable of sliding in its base and of turning completely on its axis to turn the crystal inward.

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Corum Admiral Cup Seafender 47 Tourbillon GMT

Corum combines supreme elegance & intriguing complications in its latest edition to the iconic Admiral Cup Collection.   This model is quite a far cry from previous Admiral Cup models featuring loud and brightly colored nautical flags emblazoned beneath the bezel.  Keeping with the Admiral Cup tradition, nautical flags are featured beneath the bezel; however quite a bit more discrete.  This down playing of the nautical flags seems to be the newer Admiral Cup trend, perhaps because the actual Admiral Cup international sailing regatta has been a no show for almost a decade.  All due respect to Corum, this is one of the finest Admiral Cup Timepieces I have ever seen.  The iconic twelve sided of the bezel has been softened slightly and crafted from glowing rose gold.  The 47mm dial is spacious sporting an exquisite tourbillon complication and a dual time zone.  The key of Corum is incorporated in the tourbillon movement and seems to unlock time with the rotation of the tourbillon within the signature key cage. The diagonal lines across the dial provide the perception of space on a dial which otherwise may seem cluttered.
Since this is a nautical timepiece, a second time zone is a critical especially if one is traveling across longitudes.  A handy pusher at the 4 'o' clock sets the second time zone, which is visible on a sub dial at the 6 'o'clock position, and just in case one is holed in the bowels of a ship, a day night indicator provides clues to the outside. At the 3 'o' clock position, the day of the month is perfectly placed.
Some say the see through case back is as alluring as the dial, since an exceptional large Corum caliber  CO397 automatic movement is entirely visible via a scratch resistant sapphire crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating. 
A power reserve of 50 hours ensures the watch remains ticking off the wrist for at least 50 hours.  The timepiece is water resistant to 50 meters thanks to gaskets and a screw in case back, however 50 meters does limits its uses around too much water; however for $70,000 I would be quite careful where and when I wear the watch.
This watch is also available in aluminum for $47,000 in a  truly handsome  matt black.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Artya Creates "Son of a Gun" for Ultimate Watch Protection Action

Watch companies go to unrepresented lengths to provide watches with ultimate protection, such as utilizing scratch resistant sapphire crystal to protect the dial, using materials such as titanium & forged steel to provide the ultimate resilience and corrosion resistance, using gaskets and screw-in case back to provide water resistance, crafting tourbillons to protect the watch from forces of gravity and utilizing alloy components and cages crafted from highly conductive materials to protect the watch movement from magnetic field.

However Artya has decided on more direct  approach to watch protection with the "Son of a Gun" timepiece.  Weapon enthusiasts will undoubtedly find this watch shooting to the top of their "must have" list.  Merging weapons and horology is a unique idea, although not so far removed as to make the entire concept astounding, after all shooting and hitting a target is all about precision and perfect timing.
  The watch bezel and dial  resemble a target with carved notches at the 12, 9, 6 and 3 'o' clock position. The dial is comprised of six 6mm bullets, which the designer connected using copper wire in a dynamite formation with more copper wire running along the skeletonized ultra sharp watch hands.  My suggestion - don't try bring this watch on a plane- you might have some explaining to do.
The dial of the "Son of a Gun" is protected by high quality sapphire crystal with a water resistance of 50 meters. A sapphire crystal case back reveals the rotor balanced by the backs of 38 mm bullets. I got to say this is one cool watch. 
If you want a unique timepiece you've always got Artya.

Friday, August 26, 2011

GLAM ROCK Rocks Around Your Wrist


Women's Miami- The Watchery Price: $560 (60% off)
The dazzling colorful lifestyle of Miami Beach inspired  Enrico Margaritelli and Isabella Maujean to create a brand new Watch company fusing Miami life,  French glamor and style and excellent quality Swiss Made Movements. The result is Glam Rock, a watch company that simply gets noticed.

One can recognize a Glam Rock Watch by its bold bezel punctuated by four screws. Glam Rock is famous for its amazing stylistic versatility.  If one tires of the bezel color or it simply clashes with an outfit, there is no need to go out and buy a new watch, simply remove the four screws situated on the bezel above and below the dial, and replace the bezel with a Glam Rock bezel in the color of your choice.  By doing this you can change the entire look of the watch. Your friends will wonder how many watches you own, and when you tell them about Glam Rock's bezel changing scheme, your friends will absolutely love the idea and want a Glam Rock Watch.

Since there are so many colors and styles to choose from, there is no worry that your friend will have the exact same watch as you - unless of course you want her too.  (friends forever - you know what I mean) . In addition, Glam Rock has introduced an exciting new click system which allows for the removal of the bezel with a quick click.  Glam Rock watches seem to have quiver with intense energy and a demand for life.  One of the most popular Glam Rock Collection is the Miami Collection, which has hundreds of vibrant colors.  To order your Glam Rock today visit THE WATCHERY for outstanding deals on a watch you will wear.

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Concord C2 Chronograph. Concord's Coolest Collection Yet.

Concord, owned by Movado Group, has finally found the balance between over-the-top futuristic watches and plain boring outdated watches with its brand new new C2 collection.  Don't get me wrong, I think Concord Delirium's, Saratoga's and La Scala's  definitely had a place in the 20th century, but style's change and the world moves on.  On the flip side I think the C1 models ,such as the highly publicized Concord C1 QuantumGravity Tourbillon Watch (see inset left below), born from the new improved Concord Company was a daring adventurous leap from the super slim seriously elegant Deliriums and such. The C1's are bold rugged powerful timepieces built to impress; however, due to the large merging sub dials, the dial seems a bit cluttered and difficult to read.
C1 QuantumGravity Tourbillon
  However looking at the C2, I feel the C2 is definitely a leap in the right direction. Concord has softened the C2 making the lines slightly more fluid and shrinking the sub dials, thus increasing the readability of the dial while maintaining the bold presence of the timepiece without being too overbearing.  The use of a matt black finish adds an elegant simplicity while exuding a sense of powerful resilience.  The entire look of the 43 mm black PVD-treated stainless steel watch whispers unhindered speed and powerful precision.  An ETA 2894-2 automatic mechanical movement powers the watch.  An alluring  red-accented black vulcanized rubber strap promises extreme comfort as it is attached directly to the watch case without the use of lugs or pins.  A folding clasp crafted from black PVD-treated stainless steel securely fastens the Concord C2 to the wrist.  In addition C2 is proudly emblazoned on the case back in no uncertain terms.

Concord has balanced this watch very well. I have a feeling the C2 Chronograph will do very well. Looking forward to see this watch on the market costing $6,500 for the black PVD case and a bit under $6,000 for the stainless steel case. This watch is less expensive than its forerunner - the C1 Collection.

Monday, August 22, 2011

Hublot Oceanographic 4000 for Only Watch 2011

Back in April I blogged about Hublot's Diver watch, which could accompany a diver down 4000m - if a diver could in fact dive to that depth.   In reality a diver cannot . Hublot made this watch as a symbolic gesture to push the limits of rationality and endurance.  One thing is for certain, if the Hublot Oceanographic watch is unwittingly dropped over the side of a ship, it will merrily keep on ticking ,surrounded by inquisitive fish, on the ocean floor since the Hublot Oceanographic can endure the pressure and resist water at a depth of 4000m.   Hublot spent 18 months of intense research and development to create a watch with this type of water resistance and pressure endurance.
The model depicted above is based on the original Diver's Watch and is Hublot's contribution to the Only Watch Auction 2011, to raise charity for the awareness and research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.
For a watch to be presented by a company for the Only Watch Auction it must be either the first watch of a limited edition, or a completely unique model.

Hublot's Oceanographic 4000 timepiece is unique in that it is the very first watch crafted from ultra-technical carbon fiber. The watches colors - bright red with white accents- represent the colors of Monaco's flag. The signature "King Power" 48mm case and bezel is crafted from an attractive and powerful Matt Carbon Fiber.  The Matt Black dial sports bold red  indexes treated with white SuperLuminova, which enables clear dial readout in murky or dark conditions. The dial is protected by Scratch Resistant Sapphire crystal. The watch is powered with precision by HUB1401 automatic movement comprised of 180 components and 23 jewels with a 42 hour power reserve.  The red stitched alligator strap on black rubber accentuates the red on the dial and is affixed to the wrist via a black PVD titanium ardillon buckle. bright red strap complements the red on the


Friday, August 19, 2011

Looking Back at The Concept Watch with No Face

Looking very much like a time portal, the M60M has no watch dial to speak of .  All the time display is in the bezel. This awesome concept designed by Roger Kellenberger in 2007 brought the quest for an uncluttered dial to a whole new level.  I wonder what Nathan George Horwitt, creator of the Movado Museum Watch would think of that.  If you are a stickler for punctuality this watch may not be for you, since the steel and rubber M60M only displays time in full hours and full quarter of an hour.  No seconds and no minutes.  So I bet you are wondering where the movement is located.  Well there is only one place it can be located and that is in the bezel. The hour and quarter of an hour markings are fixed on the bezel and a single rotating marker indicates the time.  The watch is precise, to the quarter of an hour. The strap is also pretty cool with a unique closing system which springs open with a touch of a button.  Roger Kellenberger gave no prospective date the watch will be available for purchase, and still four years down the line the M60M still has not made its debut, maybe he is a bit ahead of time since this watch would look great with those intergalactic space suits.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Iconic Watch Designer Gerald Genta has died




 Gerald Genta, iconic watch designer has died.

Although I never had the privilege to meet him, his exceptional watch designs, such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Timepiece, became the standard to which I base timeless watch design.  In the past I have written numerous blogs about Gerald Genta, as he was one of the first watch makers whose genius caught my attention.   The Horological World will sorely miss one of the greatest watch designers of our time. I would like to extend sincere condolences to his family and friends.  May he Rest in Peace.

In his memory I present links to my Blogs about Gerald Genta and his work.

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Icelandic Watch Company Pays Tribute to its Volcano


JS Watch Co. located in Reykjavik Iceland incorporates its ancient heritage into every timepiece.  Established in 2005 by four passionate watch collectors, JS Watch Co. first collection sprang to life.  The journey to create the first Icelandic Watch Company Collection was preceded by formulation of ideas, collection designs and the strive to create a watch of exceptional quality, which will become heirlooms for the next generations.  This perfection in craftsmanship, designed and assembled by hand in Iceland using only the highest quality Swiss movements and European materials,   has paid off and JS Watch Co has gained global admiration.
JS Watch Co. newest watch model pays tribute to the explosive and quite disruptive (if you recall the cloud of ash saga disrupting air travel in 2010) Eyjafjallajokull. JS Watch Co. introduces The Frisland goð Timepiece sporting a dial created using the ashes from the Eyjafjallajökull eruption.  Fixing volcanic ash on the dial requires some creativity in technique. A clear color is applied to the galvanic black dial, after which volcanic ash is sprinkled onto the clear color whilst it is still wet.  The color and ash is then dried and polished.  The polishing process is undertaken with great care to ensure the texture and properties of the ash prevail. Bold white indexes and a 12 and 6 as well as a bright red “goð” are applied to the dial.  The word “goð” is a reference to history of the People of Icelandic and their smooth conversion to Christianity in 1000 AD.  This was in part to the incredible impression ,the eruptions and rumblings of the earth spewing lava and spurting fiery hot molten rock, had on their decision.


Romain Jerome also paid tribute to Eyjafjallajokul, in its DNA collection. 

The Frisland goð Timepiece is an automatic mechanical timepiece powered by a "Execution Top" movement with a 38 hour power reserve.  The watch is equipped with a shock protection Incabloc, which is a trade name for a spring-loaded mounting system for the jewel bearings which support the balance wheel.  This system protects the wheel's pivots from harm if the watch is subjected to sudden sharp movements. The 42mm case is crafted from German grade stainless steel 316L.  The dial is protected by scratch resistant Sapphire Crystal.  Sapphire Crystal covers the case back enabling one to view the intricate workings of the movement. The Rhodium plated hands are covered with luminescent material for time display in dim conditions. The Alligator or Ostrich and Calf Skin strap is closed by a JS Watch co. Reykjavik buckle or optional deployment clasp.

It seems JS Watch Co has taken great strides in ensuring optimum quality, while infusing its collections with a taste of Icelandic Heritage. 

Monday, August 15, 2011

Corum's Admiral's Cup Seafender 48 Deep Dive to 1000 Feet



Corum adds a watch to the long list of diver's watches which can dive far deeper than man can venture beneath the ocean.  However, venture or not, the new Corum's Admiral Cup Seafender 48 Deep Dive is a impressive Diver's watch equipped with all the necessary diving functions.
  In all serious diving watches I always look for a Helium Valve.  In this case the Corum has one.  A helium valve is crucial in scuba diving scenarios. A helium valve enables divers who operate at great depths and spend prolonged hours under extreme pressure breathing a mix like trimix containing gases such as helium (tiny molecules) or hydrogen (smallest molecules found in nature) to release the helium molecules that have worked their way through the o-rings or other seals. The helium and hydrogen molecules cause no damage when the watch is at great depths under pressure but as soon as the diver resurfaces, a pressure difference occurs between the trapped gas(es) inside the watch case and the surrounding air. This can cause the crystal to pop off damaging the watch thus the helium valve is a crucial edition to diving watches enabling the diver to release the gas build up and restore equilibrium.

Other properties of the Corum Admiral's Cup Seafender 48 deep Dive which makes it a hard core Diver's Watch.  The watch adheres to the strict ISO 6425  guidelines relating to Diver's Watches, which is defined as: "A watch designed to withstand diving in water at depths of at least 100 m and possessing a system to control the time"
The testing of Diving Watches occurs in still water under 125% of rated water pressure.  In other words, a watch claiming a 200 meter water resistance rating has been tested in still water at a depth of 250 meters.
Diving watches are tested in static or still water under 125% of the rated (water)pressure, thus a watch with a 200 meter rating will be water resistant if it is stationary and under 250 meters of static water.
Corum has met the criteria by crafting the watch with a Grade 5 titanium case.  Grade 5 titanium is considered an alloy as it consists of 6% aluminum, 4% vanadium, 0.25% iron, 0.2%  Oxygen and the remaining percentage titanium.  Titanium Grade 5 is utilized extensively in Aerospace, Medical, Marine, and Chemical Processing as it is stronger than commercially pure titanium while maintaining its stiffness and thermal properties. Titanium Grade 5 is heat treatable, strong & corrosion resistance.
Corum has crafted the 48mm case with a thickness of 18.9mm and a screw down crown. An automatic Caliber CO947 with a power reserve of 42 hours is a certified Chronometer as certified by the COSC.

Nautical Flags fly just below the unidirectional rotating bezel- a signature of all Admiral Cup Corum Watches.  Another crucial aspect of a Diver's Watch is the readout in murky conditions.  Depending on the version, this watch is available in two, the hands and hour markers are coated in either highly luminescent bi-light orange coating (watch image above) or black superluminova.  The dial read out is clear as a result of the bold markings.  Central hours and minutes as well as a small seconds at the 9'o'clock and day and date at the 3 'o'clock provide crucial time tracking. 
The Corum Admiral's Cup Seafender 48 Deep Dive is available in two versions, the first which I have described above in bright orange is available in a limited edition of 200 and a PVD blackened version with a Grade 5 titanium case sports a 18 carat gold bezel, which is available in a limited edition of 100.
For a diver serious about diving, a Corum Admiral's Cup Seafender 48 Deep Dive, won't leave you high and dry.

Friday, August 12, 2011

Romain Jerome Only Watch 2011 Dial Extracted from Rock of Monaco

Romain Jerome Rock the Rock DNA

Romain Jerome presents Rock the Rock DNA timepiece at the Only Watch Auction held by Antiquorium next month in Monaco to raise funds for research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The rocky surface of the dial surrounded by a Black matte ceramic Bezel is actually crafted from rock taken from the ancient part of Monaco known as the "Rock of Monaco" .  The "Rock of Monaco" is a giant 459 foot Monolith jutting into the Mediterranean sea on which sits the "Old Town" of Monaco - not far from the Prince's palace.  The dial was extracted from the west cliff of the Monaco rock for the Only Watch Auction on February 10th ,2011 by  Philippe Mondielli, geologist and scientific director of the Prince Albert II of Foundation and Luc Pettavino, President of the Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy.

 Red lines of Latitude and Longitude on the rock dial and small seconds hand intersect at the Principality of Monaco. The Red line of Longitude extend from dial to black rolled-edge alcantara strap. Beneath the rock dial within a 46mm PVD black case beats a Caliber C22RJ51- Automatic Mechanical  movement with a power reserve of 42 hours. The sides of the case are crafted from black satin-finished PVD-coated steel complimented by the same material on the lugs and lug inserts.  The paws are crafted from highly resilient black ceramic and titanium screws and the crown is comprised of black PVD coated steel with rubber.. 

On the case back is a Rock the Rock engraving.  This watch is a Limited Edition of One, and part of Romain Jerome's DNA collection.

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Gold Stands the Test of Time


I am getting quite dizzy from all the see sawing occurring in the stock market, and the talk around the water cooler is gold. Gold! Gold! GOLD!
"So how much do you think the Kruger Rands ,I bought a couple of years ago, go for?"
or "I should have bought gold instead of Fannie Mae shares".


With gold prices soaring, gold actually makes money for you by simply being gold. Aside from the vast uses of gold in electronics,  aeronautics, aesthetics e.t.c, the use of gold for making watches cases has been around for centuries.
So if you don't want your gold just sitting around being gold then purchase a luxury gold watch.  With a luxury gold watch, you got the gold and you got the function.  I would suggest, if you are looking into purchasing a gold watch, purchase a gold watch with a mechanical movement.
In higher end gold watches such as  Blancpain Men's 18k rose gold case (see right), the mechanical movement within the gold watch case adds to the watches value making the watch, well, timeless. (for the record -Blancpain has never manufactured a quartz watch.).

Another property that adds value to the watch, is the level of complication.  This Blancpain timepiece is a chronograph which adds to its desirability.  Another complication ,which heightens the value in high end watches, is a perpetual calender.  The reason is in the complexity of the craftsmanship compounded by the huge number of additional working parts.  One of the most coveted perpetual calenders is the Royal Oak Men's Perpetual Calender.  The watch is 23% off the list price at THE WATCHERY, available for $95,000.  The 18k brushed rose gold and bracelets adds its weight in gold, but it's the exceptional movement which adds to the price.  In addition to the perpetual calender, this watch is a limited edition timepiece.  Thus anytime you purchase a limited edition of exceptional quality, you know the time piece is a collectors item and has a high resale value.  Not only is the timepiece limited edition, its limited edition is within the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak collection. Unveiled in 1972 and distinctive by its 8 sided bezel, this collection has a large following of collectors.
This timepiece also has a moon phase, a skeletonized watch face  (the movement of the watch is visible beneath the dials).  In addition, day, date, month, leap year - functions of the perpetual calender are displayed via subdials all add to the watches worth.
 To invest in gold in times of economic uncertainty is wise, to invest in gold high end complicated mechanical luxury watches is even wiser.

Monday, August 8, 2011

The Striking Breguet Réveil Musical Only Watch 2011

Breguet has unveiled a touching timepiece for the Only Watch Auction to be held this September at Monaco Yacht Show to raise charity for the research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.  A child upon the dial face reaches to grasp the hand of an adult. Breguet cites the significance of this gesture as a symbol of inter-generational solidarity and support for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. This watch is based on Breguet's newest model of its Classique Complications Collection.
A ring of musical notes upon an elegantly engraved musical stave surround the 48mm 18 carat white  gold watch case hinting at a song.  The song "castle in the sky" emanates from the watch via a unique patented music box mechanism, either on demand or at a preset time. A push button at the 10 'o'clock position starts the music.  This model is based on Breguet's new self-winding movement incorporating a silicon escapement with a Breguet balance-spring. The Réveil Musical timepiece houses a ingenious patented musical mechanism.
A disc baring pins replaces the traditional music-box cylinder and alternately acts on the 15 metal teeth of the comb. A Liquidmetal® membrane engine-turned by hand amplifies the frequencies required to emit the tune.

  During the song, the dial turns a complete 360 degrees. A 55 hour power reserve, displayed in vivid blue via an aperture at the 3 'o'clock position indicates if the song will play.  If not enough power is available, the song will not begin.  The song , not only serves an entertainment function, but also serves as an alarm.  To determine whether the alarm is on or off, one only has to glance at a discrete round aperture between the 9 and 10 'clock. The most touching aspect of the watch is the rotating hand-gouilloche dial engraved with the image of a boy stretching out his hand to meet the hand of the adult on the flange. 
Blued steel hollow moon tipped hands display the time, while a delicately carved Treble Clef serves as a counter balance to the seconds hand. 
The Breguet Réveil Musical Only Watch 2011 is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement Calibre 0900 and water resistant to 30 meters. The watch is numbered and bares the Breguet signature as well as the inscription "piece unique" on the case back. 

Friday, August 5, 2011

Vacheron Constantin on Madison and 64th, New York, NY

on June 23rd, 2011, Vacheron Constantin  arrived in New York, and if you don't believe me just check out the tell tale signs of the yellow cabs, blinking walk sign ... and "oh Yes" how could I forget - the street sign above the One Way sign reading "Madison Avenue".  Yes! Vacheron Constantin has definitely come to New York.
For this momentous occasion - this is the first boutique Vacheron Constantin has opened in USA - the 256 year old company - is selling an exclusive Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “New York”. The dial, of course, is in the American Red, white and blue colors, looking as busy as rush hour in New York.  It is quite intriguing that Vacheron Constantin opted, for the first time, to add a perpetual complication to its chronograph function within its stainless steel 42mm Overseas case.
Vacheron Constantin obviously wanted to make a big impression on a big city.   A Perpetual calender complication  adds many components to the movement, as the calender accounts for the differing lengths of the months as well as leap years. This watch contains 228 parts and oscillates at 21,600 vph.  Most perpetual calenders need no adjustments until the year 2100.  (Remember to tell that to the great grand kids), unless of course the power reserve of 40 hours diminish.  A 48 month counter with a leap-year indication keeps one up to date.  On the dark blue sun ray satin finished dial, 12 applied trapezoid hour-markers in 18K white gold coated with white luminescent material enable excellent read out in dim conditions. A sub dial at 6 o’clock position accounts for the seconds accompanied ,in the same sub dial, by a moon phase display. The dial is protected by scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, coated on the inside with anti-reflective treatment.  In addition, this watch is quite protected from the hustle and bustle of New York, with its 150 meter water resistance - in case one is caught in a heavy rainstorm or gets splashed at the curb by a careening yellow cab through a melting mound of snow. A soft iron cage surrounding the movement protects the watch from wandering magnetic fields.  (truthfully I must do more research into the anti-magnetic properties of a watch)
On the screw down case back emblazoned with a sea vessel ( found on all "Overseas" collections), the number of the watch out of 20, is depicted.  This watch is limited to just 20 pieces.  In addition the location of the new Vacheron Constantin Boutique " Madison and 64th"  is clearly marked on the dial.

A hand-stitched, saddle finished, large squale-scales strap in dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with a red leather inner shell completes the "American" look.  Costing $57,900.00, the watch is securely fixed around the wrist with a stainless steel triple-blade folding clasp sporting double security with buttons and Vacheron Constantin's polished half Maltese cross.

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Omega Unveils Seamaster 1948 Co Axiel "London 2012" Limited Edition

To Commemorate Omega's 80th year of Olympic timekeeping come summer 2012, Omega unveils the Omega Seamaster 1948 Co- Axiel "London 2012" Limited Edition, exactly the year to the date before the opening ceremony of the London 2012 Olympics. London 2012 will mark the 25th time Omega is named the Official Olympic Timekeeper. Omega's first Olympic timekeeping year was back in Los Angeles 1932. Omega kept time using its chronographs and stop-watches developed by its subsidiary Lemania. Omega's use of its 1948 Seamaster to commemorate the Olympic London 2012 is by know means a coincidence: 1948 marked  the debut of the Seamaster and it the last time London hosted the Olympics. Thus it stand to reason this watch will only be available in limited edition of 1,948 pieces.
Seamaster Professional 300m Vancouver 2010 Olympics Watch

In 2012 the demand for timekeeping precision is even greater with Omega's increasing ability to mark the time in smaller and smaller increments. In addition, Omega is responsible for compiling the data and statistics of the games and the hiring of expert data processing professionals. The highly efficient time keeping techniques of Omega has come a long way from the 1948 Olympics when Omega introduced the  "Magic Eye" - a photo finish camera Omega pioneered for sports. 

No sign of the London 2012 Olympics mark the dial of the Omega Seamaster 1948 Co Axiel "London 2012" , as in previous years-see inset, which may disappoint some who were expecting to see Olympic Colored  Numbers and the interlocking Olympic circles.  However, as you can see the Olympic London 2012 logo is emblazoned on the case back on a yellow gold disc looking very much like an Olympic gold medal.  The watch itself is the picture of elegance - a fine commemoration piece rather than a rugged portrayal of sports.

  Within its 39mm polished and brushed stainless steel case, is an Omega Caliber 2202 with a Co- Axiel escapement (now a mainstay on all new Omega timepieces) on three levels and a free sprung-balance.  The movement of the timepiece has undergone rigorous testing and consequently awarded the title of chronometer.  A polished stainless steel bezel frames a opaline silver dial marked by a white gold vintage Omega logo, and a small seconds dial at the 6 'o'clock position bringing a touch of blue to its face .  Four white gold bold Arabic Numerals mark the 3, 6, 9 & 12 dial positions while slender hour indicators mark the rest.  Polished Stainless Steel Lugs hold a leather strap in place, which closes via a vintage polished stainless buckle. 

This latest edition to Omega's longstanding and historic contribution to the Olympic Games is a fine example of the brevity of  timekeeping tradition without being blinded by ribbons and frills.

Friday, July 22, 2011

Van Cleef & Arpels Whimsical Display of Space for Only Watch Auction

Van Cleef & Arpels Only Watch "From the Earth to the Moon" is a whimsical childlike representation of space. A perfect choice for the Only Watch Auction in Monaco to benefit the research and treatment of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.  A terrible debilitating childhood disease.  The dial of the watch is a display of color depicting bright stars and colorful planets.   A vivid orange and red planet encircled by rings or is it the sun  indicating orbits (I can't tell - my knowledge of astronomy needs some work) command the top of the watch and separate the retrograde hours and minutes.  A tiny rocket ship travels from 0 to 60 pointing to the minutes, whilst a shooting star travels from 1 to 12 indicating the hours.  At their end points, both rocket ship and star shoot back to the 0 or 1 respectively.  The watch is a true retrograde displaying the time in an arc as opposed to the traditional analog dial.  The earth displayed at the very bottom of the watch is a healthy  green and blue planet spilling over onto the bezel.  Mars - The Red Planet takes center stage.  Van Cleef & Arpels uses inlays of jade, agate, meteorite and Champlevé-style enamel, to achieve true primary colors.  The watch is powered by a JLC Caliber 846 manuel-wind mechanical movement equipped with a unique retrograde mechanism found exclusively in Van Cleef & Arpels Timepieces. 

The Van Cleef & Arpel "From the Earth to the Moon" is part of the exquisite "Poetic Complication Timepieces"

Video of Van Cleef & Arpels Magnificent  "Les Voyages Extraordinnaires"Dials

Thursday, July 21, 2011

10 Good Reasons to Purchase an Invicta Watches

1) Invicta Watches are 91% off the MSRP at The Watchery- if you don't believe me just check out this Invicta Men's Force GMT Maroon Dial with a Maroon Polyurethane & Titanium accented strap from THE WATCHERY

2) Invicta Watches are good quality watches for reasonable prices, and that's not a coincidence - it was the vision of Invicta Watches founder,  Raphael Picard, when he started the company back in 1837 in La Chaux-de-fonds, Switzerland.   For over a century Invicta created mechanical automatic timepieces of exceptional craftsmanship and unique design at prices people could afford.  The "Quartz Scare" dealt a powerful blow to the operations of Invicta, and the company went under.  However, just like the resilience of Invicta watches today, Invicta reemerged in 1991 thanks to the descendants of Raphael Picard. They never lost sight of the founder's vision of creating good quality watches for affordable prices.  
Men's S1 GMT Blue and White Dial Blue Polyurethane
3) Invicta combines different watch materials to create 100's of different styles and colors.  The Invicta Men's G-Force displayed at the top of the post, sports a Titanium Case and a bold arrangement of Polyurethane and Titanium.  
4) The dials of Invicta watches are protected by a Flame fusion crystal (Flame-Fusion™ is an Invicta trademark- 2009), which is a cheaper alternative to the more traditional Sapphire Crystal, and has greater scratch resistance than mineral crystal - used in older Invicta models. In addition the Flame fusion crystal is a much clearer window to the time. 
5) Many Invicta watches have a highly efficient lume on the dial hands and hour markers.  The lume is known as Tritnite® only exclusive to Invicta. Tritnite® requires an initial 4-5 hours of exposure to light after which it will maintain its phosphorescent properties with regular light exposures.   In Invicta Luminary Sports Collection luminous tubes or mb-Microtec H3 are fitted into the area's requiring luminescence.  This technology was first used in military operations, with luminescence 100x greater than traditional lume. The luminescence was so bright , soldiers were made to wear a cover over the watch to prevent being recognized as a target. 
6) Invicta Watches are big, some coming in at 58mm like the SEA HUNTER CHRONO, an impressive watch if one has the wrist to wear it. When buying an Invicta, pay careful attention to the size of your watch. For a point of reference most very large men’s watches are 48mm. So if you want a big watch, Invicta's got you covered. 
7)  Invicta Watches are shock absorbent like The GRAND DIVER PRO AUTOMATIC, which  is a mechanical self-winding shock resistant timepiece.So if you are in a situation where you gotto shake rattle and roll, your Invicta timepiece will keep on ticking, just the way you like it.  
Women's Subaqua/Noma III GMT White Leather
Invicta Reserve/Venom
8) Since this is a seriously hot summer, (the thermometer tops 100 F today), the cool refreshing water is a calling, but what about your watch.  I mean you don't want to take off your watch, leave it on the beach and next thing you know its disappeared down a crab hole. NO! You want to swim with your Invicta on your wrist. Invicta sees to this dilemma too, don't you worry. Most Invicta watches are water resistant to 100 meters, although not suitable for diving, is fine for surfing, swimming, snorkeling, sailing & water sports. For serious diving, Invicta Sea Hunter Chrono and Arsenal II Chrono Collections are water resistant to 300 meters, a depth suitable for Scuba Diving. For the Ladies, The LADY SUBAQUA NOMA IV AUTOMATIC (image above)  collection, has a water resistance of up to 500 meters. Many Invicta models are water resistant to 660 feet and some like the Invicta Men's Reserve/Venom  are water resistant to 1000 meters.  

9) Invicta watches, not only are precise time tellers, but are bold and confident addition to ones wardrobe and image - meant to be noticed. I mean just check out  The Men's Lupah Automatic Chronograph Diamond Black Leather $499.99
On sale for 90% off the MSRP.  Now that's an image maker.  The case is Gunmetal ion plated stainless steel (it screams - don't mess with me); dial is sunray gunmetal; strap is black leather, but what is an image without a touch of bling. There are 53 white encrusted diamonds on hour markers and Arabic numerals.

10) Depending on your watch requirements, Invicta sells watches to suit your needs.  
  • Compasses - as available in its Invicta Coalition Forces Collection  
Invicta in Latin means “Invincible”, a name with origins dating back to ancient Rome, and with the message of "invincibility" strapped to ones wrist, the problems of the day somehow seem manageable. 

    Wednesday, April 6, 2011

    What is Chronofiable Certified?

    Just recently I happened upon the term Chronofiable®, thanks to the super lightweight RM 035 manufactured by Richard Mille. The RM 035 is the first Richard Mille manual winding movement to have a Chronofiable Certification and weighs a mere 4.3 grams.

    What is a Chronofiable Certification? It is a Certification awarded to a timepiece that has undergone and passed a series of tests focusing on the durability and reliability of a movement worn on the wrist on a a regular basis. For example Richard Mille boasts excellence, durability and reliability on the tennis court. Under these circumstances the watch is subjected to extreme shock when the wearers wrist swings and makes contact with racket to ball. In fact, 2010 three time tennis champion and Richard Mille ambassador, Rafeal Nadel, wore his RM 027 tourbillon while competing at Wimbledon. Although that watch was not Chronofiable certified, the new RM 035 is. The extreme testing the watch has endured to obtain the Chronofiable Certification will give some indication on how and how long this new model will fare on the tennis court.

    How is this different than the Chronometer Certification tests? The rigorous testing in accordance with the ISO 3159 norm focuses more on the precision of the timepiece whereas the Chronfiable certification focuses on the durability, or wear and tear, of the timepiece over an extended period of wearing time. (click here to learn more about the COSC Certificate)

    How is this Certification different than the Geneva Seal? The Geneva Seal focuses more on the aesthetics of the movement and is predominately concerned with finishing and decoration. In regard to the Geneva Seal, precision tests are available ,but not required, as part of the inspection process. The Geneva Seal inspects the current quality of the craftsmanship and compilation, and is not directly concerned with the ultimate durability; although, it can be ascertained that the better materials, craftsmanship and assembly will lead to better durability.(click here to learn more about the Geneva Seal)


    What types of tests does the timepiece undergo to become Chronofiable?
    The timepiece is exposed to a accelerated aging test over the course of 21 days, which is equivalent to six months of constant wear. This process is divided into many components:
    a) Initial inspection of the movements functions serve as a baseline for future changes occurring during the testing process.
    b
    )Subjecting the timepiece to climatic cycles in dry/wet environment from –70°C to +180°C and measuring the resulting corrosion and performance.
    c)Measuring the pull and push forces on the stem.
    d) Measuring the forces exerted on push buttons such as chronograph controls, correctors as well as turning bezel.
    e) Monitoring the efficiency of the power reserve.
    f) Monitoring the movements reaction to magnetic fields.
    g)Subjecting the movement to intensive linear and angular accelerations and decelerations.
    h) Striking the movement with a heavy pendulum or striker, and subjecting it to some 20,000 shocks ranging from 250 to 5500 m/s2 (a
    constant acceleration of one metre per second squared) - not applied to timepieces with delicate complications.
    i) Testing water resistance.
    j) Performing electrical measurements.
    k) UV testing on leather straps.
    l) Performing the final monitoring phase, which involves applying the same monitoring technique used in the initial monitoring phase, and comparing the results. These results indicate if the timepiece can be awarded the Chronofiable distinction.

    When was the Chronofiable test developed? The Chronofiable was initially a random series of reliability tests performed by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH) in the 1960's and 1970's. These tests were performed with great success on about 1000 to 2000 "worn on the wrist" watches leading to the "Chronofiable reliability test procedure developed by a team of technicians resulting in the creation of the "Swiss Watch Industry Reliability Test Center (CCF SA)"
    In 1985, the CCF SA was assigned to the Laboratoire Dubois and Chronofiable became a registered trademark.

    Which label of quality requires the Chronofiable certification? The Fleurier Quality Label.

    How valid is the Chronofiable testing procedure or in other words does the testing actually test how the wrist watch behaves on the wrist? Since there is an excellent correlation between the wear and tear of watches worn on the wrist and those subjected to the testing, the conclusion is that the Chronofiable testing is a valid way to determine the effects of the watch being worn on the wrist over time. This has been proven on numerous occasions with many types of movements and many brands. This, Chronofiable testing is an accurate predictor of how the watch with this type of certification will perform over time.

    How is the reliability of the procedure insured? To maximize good reproducibility of the test conditions and ensure consistent long-term comparisons, the testing equipment is regularly updated, serviced and calibrated. The test parameters have not been changed in 30 years, thus providing the watch industry with a exceptional standard to grade the durability of a timepiece.

    Does all testing need 21 days? No. Functions and components less effected by the frequency of tests imposed, such as tightness of back cover screws and casing-up screws, dial and hand integrity, can be tested over a shorter time period by subjecting the timepiece to accelerated application of multi directional shocks; however to reduce the entire testing procedure to just a few days will undermine the quality of the testing procedure and provide little indication of the actual performance of a watch worn at all times on a wrist. To date the Chronofiable testing is the best indicator of the durability of the wristwatch in its natural settings.

    Although, Richard Mille has just unveiled the RM 035, the tests it has undergone to ensure its durability have been around for 30 years.