The Cricket in Vulcain's Anniversary Heart Watch for Only Watch 2011

 

The Only Watch Auction 2011 is an incredible opportunity for  fine watch companies to display a unique watch which incorporates individual achievements pertinent to that company.  For example, Vulcain's Anniversary Heart Watch harbors the Cricket movement - a movement unique to Vulcain's heritage - as well as a skeletonized dial - another Vulcain signature.  

If you are unfamiliar with the Cricket movement, it is an alarm function or reminder function specifically designed by Vulcain  for the smaller dimensions of a wrist watch. In this day an age with fancy electronic devices, alarms are taken for granted or even despised. Alarms appear everywhere from $1 digital watches to innovative allusive alarm clocks which actually roll around.  However prior to the quartz revolution, all watches were mechanical and relied entirely on the harmonious sequential functioning of multitudes of working parts.  At first watches displayed the time in increasing precision, then compasses, tourbillons, perpetual calenders, moon-phases, dual time zones and automatic movements increased the functionality and efficiency of the time pieces.  Prior to the early twentieth century, these complications were incorporated in pocket watches, but after Santos-Dumont popularized the wrist watch, pocket watches were laid down in favor of the more handy wrist watch.  Alarm functions were available  in larger pocket watches and with a larger watch case, the capability of producing a louder sound is evident. 

However an effective alarm function in a wrist watch was a quite a challenge to develop.  Being that the watch case is small,  it was hard to produce a loud audible gong which would arouse a heavy sleeper from slumber.. 

An alarm function had three problems within a wristwatch case:

1) Audibility

2) Effecting Dust protection

3) Effecting Water resistance

... then in 1947 the problem was solved and heavy sleepers could rest easy, Vulcain presented the Vulcain Cricket. The Cricket was so loud it could penetrate the dreams and arouse the sleeper. This new alarm function woke up the World of Horology.

So how did Robert Ditisheim of Vulcain resolve the alarm audibility dilemma?  Well as the name suggests, he turned to mother nature. Let me ask you this.  Have you ever tried to fall asleep while a cricket is chirping its nightly song outside your window? Did you hug a pillow to your ear inorder to drown out the noise, but still heard its persistent resonance. AHH! Now you have your answer.

If a tiny cricket could cause such a noise, than surely a wristwatch could do the same. Robert Ditsheim Incorporated a resonance-chamber like that of a cricket by fitting a two-part back to the watch case. The inner back encloses the watch case and serves to generate the sound. A hammer strikes the watch-case ,which oscillates and produces the sound-waves. The outer case has a twofold function: First it permits the sound-generating inner-back to oscillate freely as it has no direct contact with the wearer's wrist. Second it forms a small space between the inner case back which serves as a resonance chamber. Although many Watch Companies have crafted mechanical minute repeaters, none is quite as loud as the Vulcain Cricket.

The Vulcains's Anniversary Heart Watch is a slender mechanical hand wound 12.7mm thick 42mm rose gold case. Being that the watch is hand wound, an oscillating weight (required in most automatic watches) is absent, thereby leaving the exceptionally crafted movement including the skillfully handcrafted main plate, barrel bridge and movement barrel entirely visible beyond the sapphire crystal case back, as well as maintaining the thinness of the watch case.
The Vulcain Cricket sports a 20 second alarm function and a 42 hour power reserve. Ensuring the watch is securely fitted around the wrist, a rose gold buckle is affixed to a black alligator strap.   

De Bethune Only Watch 2011 Sensual Celestial Charm

De Bethune Only Watch seems as though it is a porthole to the heavens.  Unparalleled watch making expertise accompanied by exquisite renditions of a star filled sky make the DB25 a truly unique display of time.  The exact placement of the stars depicted on the dial are in the very same position as the night in Monaco of January 8th, 1297.  The very night Francois Grimaldi, Genoese leader of the  Guelphs, dressed as a Franciscan monk,  captured the rock.  De Bethune's Orion and Gemini Constellations are 14 invisibly set white diamonds, while 91 surrounding stars are touches of applied white gold upon a memorizing flame-blued titanium dial providing a sense of the incredible infinite expansiveness of the universe.
 Looking at the 6'o'clock position, one notices an aperture displaying a solid silver sandblasted hour and minute discs with Roman Hours and Arabic minute discs or wandering hours.  The use of silver as well as the use of both Arabic and Roman Numerals adds a subtle sense of mystery to the timepiece.
The elegant 44mm 18k white gold three body round drum case protects a  precise Cal. DB2105S comprising of a twin self -regulating barrel and a De Bethune silicon-platinum annular balance; main plate and bridges in beveled and hand-polished steel; balance spring with flat terminal curve. In addition, the watch is equipped with no less than 29 jewels, which ensure smooth seamless transfer of operations. The incredible movement is visible via a scratch resistant Sapphire crystal case back. Large hollowed lugs secure an alligator strap which fastens with an 18k white gold signature De Bethune buckle.
If you out bid the competition in the Only Watch Auction, which will be held by Antiquorium in Monaco at the end of this month to raise funds and awareness for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, you will receive this watch in a fitted box accompanied by a Certificate.  Wish price EUR 100,000 - 150, 000 (source  Antiquorium)
De Bethune was established in 2002 by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet,  with the vision of upholding the watchmaking tradition.  Crafting mechanical timepieces with the aid of cutting edge technological advancements and longstanding watch making craftsmanship, De Bethune has succeeded in making a name among watch aficionados and acquiring 9 patent registrations, 11 in-house calibres validated by intense research. De Bethune has not only succeeded in crafting a timepiece with perfect precision and exceptional craftsmanship, but has created a piece of remarkable beauty and grace.

Hublot Oceanographic 4000 for Only Watch 2011

Back in April I blogged about Hublot's Diver watch, which could accompany a diver down 4000m - if a diver could in fact dive to that depth.   In reality a diver cannot . Hublot made this watch as a symbolic gesture to push the limits of rationality and endurance.  One thing is for certain, if the Hublot Oceanographic watch is unwittingly dropped over the side of a ship, it will merrily keep on ticking ,surrounded by inquisitive fish, on the ocean floor since the Hublot Oceanographic can endure the pressure and resist water at a depth of 4000m.   Hublot spent 18 months of intense research and development to create a watch with this type of water resistance and pressure endurance.
The model depicted above is based on the original Diver's Watch and is Hublot's contribution to the Only Watch Auction 2011, to raise charity for the awareness and research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.
For a watch to be presented by a company for the Only Watch Auction it must be either the first watch of a limited edition, or a completely unique model.

Hublot's Oceanographic 4000 timepiece is unique in that it is the very first watch crafted from ultra-technical carbon fiber. The watches colors - bright red with white accents- represent the colors of Monaco's flag. The signature "King Power" 48mm case and bezel is crafted from an attractive and powerful Matt Carbon Fiber.  The Matt Black dial sports bold red  indexes treated with white SuperLuminova, which enables clear dial readout in murky or dark conditions. The dial is protected by Scratch Resistant Sapphire crystal. The watch is powered with precision by HUB1401 automatic movement comprised of 180 components and 23 jewels with a 42 hour power reserve.  The red stitched alligator strap on black rubber accentuates the red on the dial and is affixed to the wrist via a black PVD titanium ardillon buckle. bright red strap complements the red on the

Romain Jerome Only Watch 2011 Dial Extracted from Rock of Monaco

Romain Jerome Rock the Rock DNA

Romain Jerome presents Rock the Rock DNA timepiece at the Only Watch Auction held by Antiquorium next month in Monaco to raise funds for research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The rocky surface of the dial surrounded by a Black matte ceramic Bezel is actually crafted from rock taken from the ancient part of Monaco known as the "Rock of Monaco" .  The "Rock of Monaco" is a giant 459 foot Monolith jutting into the Mediterranean sea on which sits the "Old Town" of Monaco - not far from the Prince's palace.  The dial was extracted from the west cliff of the Monaco rock for the Only Watch Auction on February 10th ,2011 by  Philippe Mondielli, geologist and scientific director of the Prince Albert II of Foundation and Luc Pettavino, President of the Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy.

 Red lines of Latitude and Longitude on the rock dial and small seconds hand intersect at the Principality of Monaco. The Red line of Longitude extend from dial to black rolled-edge alcantara strap. Beneath the rock dial within a 46mm PVD black case beats a Caliber C22RJ51- Automatic Mechanical  movement with a power reserve of 42 hours. The sides of the case are crafted from black satin-finished PVD-coated steel complimented by the same material on the lugs and lug inserts.  The paws are crafted from highly resilient black ceramic and titanium screws and the crown is comprised of black PVD coated steel with rubber.. 

On the case back is a Rock the Rock engraving.  This watch is a Limited Edition of One, and part of Romain Jerome's DNA collection.

The Striking Breguet Réveil Musical Only Watch 2011

Breguet has unveiled a touching timepiece for the Only Watch Auction to be held this September at Monaco Yacht Show to raise charity for the research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.  A child upon the dial face reaches to grasp the hand of an adult. Breguet cites the significance of this gesture as a symbol of inter-generational solidarity and support for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. This watch is based on Breguet's newest model of its Classique Complications Collection.
A ring of musical notes upon an elegantly engraved musical stave surround the 48mm 18 carat white  gold watch case hinting at a song.  The song "castle in the sky" emanates from the watch via a unique patented music box mechanism, either on demand or at a preset time. A push button at the 10 'o'clock position starts the music.  This model is based on Breguet's new self-winding movement incorporating a silicon escapement with a Breguet balance-spring. The Réveil Musical timepiece houses a ingenious patented musical mechanism.
A disc baring pins replaces the traditional music-box cylinder and alternately acts on the 15 metal teeth of the comb. A Liquidmetal® membrane engine-turned by hand amplifies the frequencies required to emit the tune.

  During the song, the dial turns a complete 360 degrees. A 55 hour power reserve, displayed in vivid blue via an aperture at the 3 'o'clock position indicates if the song will play.  If not enough power is available, the song will not begin.  The song , not only serves an entertainment function, but also serves as an alarm.  To determine whether the alarm is on or off, one only has to glance at a discrete round aperture between the 9 and 10 'clock. The most touching aspect of the watch is the rotating hand-gouilloche dial engraved with the image of a boy stretching out his hand to meet the hand of the adult on the flange. 
Blued steel hollow moon tipped hands display the time, while a delicately carved Treble Clef serves as a counter balance to the seconds hand. 
The Breguet Réveil Musical Only Watch 2011 is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement Calibre 0900 and water resistant to 30 meters. The watch is numbered and bares the Breguet signature as well as the inscription "piece unique" on the case back. 

Van Cleef & Arpels Whimsical Display of Space for Only Watch Auction

Van Cleef & Arpels Only Watch "From the Earth to the Moon" is a whimsical childlike representation of space. A perfect choice for the Only Watch Auction in Monaco to benefit the research and treatment of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.  A terrible debilitating childhood disease.  The dial of the watch is a display of color depicting bright stars and colorful planets.   A vivid orange and red planet encircled by rings or is it the sun  indicating orbits (I can't tell - my knowledge of astronomy needs some work) command the top of the watch and separate the retrograde hours and minutes.  A tiny rocket ship travels from 0 to 60 pointing to the minutes, whilst a shooting star travels from 1 to 12 indicating the hours.  At their end points, both rocket ship and star shoot back to the 0 or 1 respectively.  The watch is a true retrograde displaying the time in an arc as opposed to the traditional analog dial.  The earth displayed at the very bottom of the watch is a healthy  green and blue planet spilling over onto the bezel.  Mars - The Red Planet takes center stage.  Van Cleef & Arpels uses inlays of jade, agate, meteorite and Champlevé-style enamel, to achieve true primary colors.  The watch is powered by a JLC Caliber 846 manuel-wind mechanical movement equipped with a unique retrograde mechanism found exclusively in Van Cleef & Arpels Timepieces. 

The Van Cleef & Arpel "From the Earth to the Moon" is part of the exquisite "Poetic Complication Timepieces"

Video of Van Cleef & Arpels Magnificent  "Les Voyages Extraordinnaires"Dials